The internal bracing made this extremely painful to cut out, though I think it was worth it to keep the pan-hard mount attached. Even though it will still need some extra plating or bracing I think this will again make it much simpler to maintain all the geometry of the linkages as the two chassis rails are actually the same width apart up front.
At this point I am starting to wonder how to clear the sump (1kz-te). Unless I run with a huge lift kit its just not going to work out. I have gotten into contact with Dave in Japan who helped out another build that I was reading about, and he has sourced a rear sump pan for my motor which will require a modified oil pick up and dipstick as well, though its the only way I can see it clearing the diff. As a side benefit this will also allow me to creep the axle forwards by about 80mm improving wheel clearance and approach angle.
Comments
I kept 2 of the 4 original reinforced bolt tubes for the steering box which will make it much easier to install later.
The internal bracing made this extremely painful to cut out, though I think it was worth it to keep the pan-hard mount attached. Even though it will still need some extra plating or bracing I think this will again make it much simpler to maintain all the geometry of the linkages as the two chassis rails are actually the same width apart up front.
The other side was much simpler.
At this point I am starting to wonder how to clear the sump (1kz-te). Unless I run with a huge lift kit its just not going to work out. I have gotten into contact with Dave in Japan who helped out another build that I was reading about, and he has sourced a rear sump pan for my motor which will require a modified oil pick up and dipstick as well, though its the only way I can see it clearing the diff. As a side benefit this will also allow me to creep the axle forwards by about 80mm improving wheel clearance and approach angle.